Water retaining crystals – yay or nay?

I have a confession to make.

Really, I should be ashamed of myself.  It’s time I got it out in the open, however:

I’m not very good at remembering to water my houseplants.  It’s not that I mean to forget…it just sometimes happens.  I like to pretend it’s because I’m doing everything within my power to prevent mould and other nasty humidity-related issues, but really, it’s just because I’m always on the go and certain things get kind of shuffled to the wayside.

Yep, now I’ve admitted it.  Please don’t judge me too harshly!   ;)

It’s a good thing I have mostly African violets, which like to dry out between waterings.  In an attempt to alleviate the pain and suffering of my poor beleaguered plants, I’ve occasionally used water retaining crystals (aka hydrogels) in my potting soil.  For the most part, though, I haven’t really had to significantly change my watering schedule for plants with water retaining crystals in the soil versus those without; the extension of time between waterings seems to be a couple of days, perhaps three or four if I’m lucky.  I’ve never tried out the crystals in my outdoor containers, so I’m not sure if they would make a difference in hanging baskets or planters.  I’ve also never used commercial premixed potting soil that contains hydrogels.

Here’s the thing:  it seems that there is a bit of a controversy regarding water retaining crystals.  Many garden experts do not recommend their use, calling them gimmicks and citing their ineffectiveness.  (Plus, potting mixes containing the crystals are more expensive than those without!).  And, even more damaging:   I came across an article this past week which suggests that the common type of crystals made from polyacrylamide may actually be carcinogenic!  Oh boy, that’s not what I want in the soil for my houseplants…and definitely not in the potting mixes I’m growing food crops in.

There are alternatives to the polyacrylamide crystals (besides actually watering on a regular basis!).   The ones made of starch may actually be better at retaining water, and they are considerably safer.  I’m not certain how many studies have been done about all of this, and there is bound to be some continued debate.

Weigh in!  Have you ever used water retaining crystals – or would you ever use them – in your potting soil? 

Rotating crops in the community garden.

The brassicas in my community garden plot are currently under siege.

While my tatsoi and kale are perfectly edible, they’ve also been completely shot full of holes, due to a flea beetle infestation (thankfully, I’m not combating cabbage moth or cabbage white butterfly!).  Yes, I ought to have put up a floating row cover, but in truth, I’m not particularly bothered.  I’m only growing for my hubby and myself, and my plot is full of a variety of crops so a few nibbles in the cabbagy-plants don’t trouble me much.  Besides, all of the other growers in the community garden have the exact same problem (except for the thoughtful ones, who did actually employ the row covers since the start of the season), so I don’t feel like I ought to have low self-esteem for culturing pocked plants.

Flea Beetle

Flea Beetle (Photo credit: ian boyd)

I’m actually more worried about the onion maggot, which made an appearance in my shared plot last year.  One of my fellow growers at the garden told me the other day that she just doesn’t “bother with onions anymore.”  So far I haven’t seen any evidence on my plants, but it’s a lingering threat.

Our garden maintains a rigid “no-spray” policy – and I wouldn’t apply chemicals to veggies even if the restriction wasn’t in place.   I try to grow as organically and safely as I can, and one of the tenets of organic farming is crop rotation. There is no crop rotation governance in place at our community garden, and really, even if there was, how could it be done so that the whole garden would remain pest-free?  On a large-scale or commercial level, or even in a home garden, crop rotation may be a workable solution – but how do you effectively employ it in a community garden?  This is my first year with this particular plot, and should I decide to continue gardening at the site, I will be allocated the same plot next year.   And even if I were to ask for a different plot, it’s nearly a guarantee (just by looking at the produce in everyone else’s beds) that pest-susceptible brassicas and other plants are growing there right now – or were last year.  The general rule is that brassica crops should not be planted in the same spot more than once in three growing seasons, so my fellow gardeners and I are pretty much hooped if we really want hole-free collards and cabbage.  And it’s not just used to deal with pests – crop rotation is also often employed to rejuvenate nutrient-depleted soil, as veggie crops have varying nutritional needs.

Hand-in-hand with crop rotation is the employment of green manures – which, again, can’t really be used effectively in a community garden setting.  No gardener is going to pay for the rental of a plot and grow clover or alfalfa or buckwheat on it just to till it over for the next season…unless the Garden Team designates a few plots each year for the purpose and does not rent them out.  Our community garden currently doesn’t do this.  (At home, growing green manures can actually work, and it may be worth giving over different parts of your garden beds over each year to pursue this great source of ready nutrition for future crops).

Cabbage White Butterfly

Cabbage White Butterfly (Photo credit: Chad Horwedel)

So, what is a workable solution?  (Besides the floating row covers, which are on my list of ”must-haves” for next year).  I guess it all comes down to this:  a happy plant gives you little or no strife, because it’s less susceptible to munching critters and diseases.   If green manures are doable, use them.  And amend, amend, amend.  Make sure your soil is the healthiest it can be.   I know I’m definitely guilty of not adding nearly enough compost to my plot this season, and the soil texture leaves a lot to be desired as well.   Give plants a specific balanced diet of macro- and micro-nutrients.  Keep on top of the watering and weeding.  Plant crops at the right time of year, in the proper location, so that they have their best chance at thriving and producing.  Try to ward off the baddies with intercropping or trap cropping.

And even with all of this, the pests may still come.  It’s just part of gardening!  :)

What do you think about small-scale crop rotation?  Do you rotate your crops at home (or in your community garden plot)?  Do you grow green manures?   

Ha Ling Peak and roseroot.

In early July, my hubby and I hiked up the south face of Ha Ling Peak, a popular trek in Canmore, Alberta (located about 105 km west of Calgary).  You can climb the peak on the north side, but we’re hardly that intrepid!  :)   As it was, the elevation gain of 700 m was plenty enough for an utter lazy bones like me to tackle, and the multiple stops for water and to catch my breath afforded me the chance to do some wildflower hunting.  Near the summit, growing in the gravelly scree and heavy rocks at almost 2,407 m, we spotted this gem, Sedum rosea (aka Tolmachevia integrifolia):

According to the resource Wildflowers of the Canadian Rockies by George W. Scotter and Halle Flygare (reprint 2000, Alpine Book Peddlers, Canmore), this perennial is commonly called roseroot – not to be confused with Rhodiola rosea, another roseroot of northern climes that is purported to have all sorts of medicinal benefits.  (Of course, it just so happens the two plants are very closely related, and Sedum rosea is/was also known as Rhodiola integrifolia.  Having fun yet?)    Another common name for Sedum rosea is king’s crown - but it isn’t the same plant as the lovely tropical Justica carnea, which has the same moniker.  Ugh!  Plant names!

Although the plants we saw possessed only clusters of bright red flowers, the male flowers can be either yellow or red, while the females are always red.  Both male and female flowers may be present in each cluster.  The plants are small, befitting their alpine setting – the ones we saw were no taller than 10 cm.  The succulent leaves are apparently tasty in salads when young, although given that Scott and Flygare list the plant as “rare,” I wouldn’t want to dine on them.  (I’m not certain if the plant is rare only in this part of the world, as a site I found out of the States designates them “common”).

And, yes, we did make it to the top of Ha Ling Peak – here are a couple of shots of the incredible view:

Flowery spotlight: Dwarf golden flax.

In the summer of 2005 I purchased a dwarf golden flax (Linum flavum ‘Compactum’) plant in a 10 cm pot from a garden centre.  I was in a blue flax phase (still am, as all the plants I bought then have blithely reseeded themselves everywhere) and I was thrilled by the promise of the bright yellow colour of this new-to-me flax.  I just stuck it in the ground in full sun, up against a wall, near some Salvia x superba and a ‘Confetti Cherry Red’ dianthus.

Fast-forward to summer 2012, and my dwarf golden flax was just LOADED with blooms this year…it’s finally finished now, but the blooming period is long (about six weeks, from mid-June to the end of July/early August).   It’s one of my favourite perennials in the garden, so cheerful and delicate-looking.  It’s a perfect, tidy mound, about 30 cm tall and 45 cm wide.  I never have to do anything with it and yet it performs like a star.  It’s amazingly drought-tolerant (which is great, because I am ghastly at watering regularly).  Dwarf golden flax doesn’t seem to reseed itself in the garden in the mad fashion of blue flax, so I haven’t had any volunteers pop up…to my dismay.  Maybe this year I should finally save some seed!

Are you growing dwarf golden flax? 

Flowery blurbs #14.

Over the past few weeks (months?), I’ve read so many fascinating plant-related articles and posts on the ‘net, I thought I’d collect a few together to share!  Hope you enjoy these Flowery Blurbs!

  • Have you ever thought about growing rhubarb not just for food, but as an ornamental?  Here’s why you should and how to do it!
  • Problems with ants? (Ugh, don’t we all!).  This is an old solution that seems to actually work.
  • Want to make your own potting soil mixesHere are some great recipes!
  • Do you still have a surplus of radishes in your garden?  Why not pickle them?
  • The elders are still blooming here in Calgary so we can still make this recipe for sweet elderflower sugar.   Or maybe elderflower cordial, instead!
  • It’s seed-saving time!  Here’s the proper way to extract, clean, and dry tomato seeds!
  • Bugged by mosquitoes?  (Aren’t they the national insect of Canada?  Okay, perhaps it just seems that way!).  ;)  Maybe these plants can help ward them off.
  • Here’s a great post with tips to fend off pesky deer – there are detailed plant lists as well!

  • If you’re interested in growing basil from cuttings, here’s how!  I’m definitely going to try this out!
  • I saw this pest in action this year:  watch out for the columbine sawflyHere’s some information about this highly destructive critter.

  • If you have mint, you have eco-friendly carpet freshener.
  • Here’s a great summary of some wonderful edible flowers you might be growing in your garden!

Please share any other interesting gardening articles, tips and suggestions you’ve read about lately! :) 

Flowery spotlight: Fireweed.

On a mid-July trip to northern Alberta, the roadsides were brimming with bright purple fireweed (Epilobium angustifolia, formerly Chamerion angustifolium); I don’t think I’ve seen that many plants in quite a few years.  While this beautiful wildflower isn’t considered noxious in this province, it has a rather aggressive growth habit (an understatement!) and most people don’t usually encourage it in the garden.

Fireweed is so-called because of its ability to be “first on the scene” and colonize burned land after a natural fire.  This may partially explain its abundance in northern Alberta, a region beset by several forest fires in recent years.   (In my reading, I came across this interesting notation, which remarked on the colonization of fireweed in Skamania County after the eruption of Mount St. Helens in 1980).  According to an article by Julie Walker in the Calgary Horticultural Society’s August/September 2012 issue of Calgary Gardening, fireweed will consume all of the potassium from burned soil and return it three-fold when the plant dies, thus rejuvenating the land.

As a bonus, fireweed is edible, too!  Tender young parts of the plant can be cooked into a variety of dishes such as stirfries and quiches.  The leaves and flowers are often added to salads.  Unfortunately, I didn’t think to sample the flowers while I was on our trip; I would have had to seek them out in an area less polluted by highway traffic.  There’s always next year!  :)

Have you ever eaten fireweed?

Flowery spotlight: ‘Hansa’ rose.

(Photo credit:  R. Normandeau) 

In mid-June, my husband and I took a quick trip to northern Alberta to visit family.  While we were there, we had a chance to spend some time relaxing in my Mum and Dad’s garden.  At the time, the ’Hansa’ roses were just getting started on a real show, heavy with buds and open flowers.  I’m a huge fan of this rugosa rose:  they’re extremely cold hardy (zone 3), and they have exceptionally fragrant bright purple-red blooms that really make a statement in the garden.   Characteristically wrinkled bright green leaves and fierce thorns add extra visual interest (the latter also keep the critters out of the garden and offer a constant reminder to wear a good pair of gloves while pruning!).   Give them some room to grow:  ’Hansas’ are a large shrub rose, reaching up to 2 metres in height, with a 1.8 metre spread.

My parents have planted their ‘Hansa’ roses alongside a fabulous fence/gate/arbour combination that my Dad designed and built, a beautiful entrance to the back yard.

(This photo was taken just after installation; the roses have greatly matured now!  Photo credit:  H. and R. Mueller)

Other rugosa roses include ‘Henry Hudson’ (white flowers, more compact size), and pink-flowering ‘Therese Bugnet’ (which has a distinctly Alberta connection:  it was introduced in 1950 by rose breeder George Bugnet, in the town of Legal).

Are you growing any rugosa roses in your garden?  

Read some more about rugosa roses at http://www.rosemagazine.com/articles04/rugosa_roses/  and http://gardening.about.com/od/rose1/p/Rugosa-Roses.htm.

Pest to watch (out for): Spittlebug.

I haven’t whined about it for a little while now (and I’m sure you’re grateful!), but up until this morning, when that unfamiliar yellow ball in the sky finally graced us with its presence, the rains have fallen on Calgary pretty much non-stop since the end of May.  According to the Government of Canada’s National Climate Data, we’ve actually only had four days this month without precipitation, and we’ve gotten a whopping 138.6 mm of rain so far (we usually average about 75 mm or so in June, our wettest month).  All this humidity has brought some pretty interesting plant pests to the garden, and one of them is the spittlebug.

I’ve seen this creature’s work before, but only once in my garden, last June in a mat of ‘Flashing Lights’ dianthus.   Usually, I’ve come across it on wildflowers while I’ve been out hiking.   This year, the evidence is everywhere, however:  gobs of white frothy stuff wedged in the stems of various perennials in my garden.

I’ve never bothered to identify the source of the yucky substance until now, but a quick glance inside the book Garden Bugs of Alberta (by Ken Fry, Doug Macaulay and Don Williamson – 2008, Lone Pine Publishing) tells me that my garden flowers have a case of Philaenus spumarius (meadow spittlebug).  Spittlebugs like to make Slurpees out of plant fluids, which they do by piercing holes in the stems of the victims.  (Apparently they really go after strawberries and peas; I do grow alpine strawberries but I haven’t seen any signs of the bugs on them so far).  The goopy white froth is made by the pests while they are in nymphal stage:  it’s an appetizing combo of plant fluid, air bubbles, and bug mucus (is it breakfast-time as you read this?  If so, I apologize).  The froth is used as a protective blanket over the nymph so they can eat in comfort.

The Spittlebug, or spit bug, produces a cover ...

The Spittlebug, or spit bug, produces a cover of frothed-up plant sap resembling spit, and is in the nymph stage of the froghoppers, or the superfamily Cercopoidea, a group of Hemipteran insects, in the suborder Auchenorrhyncha. Seen at Montana de Oro State Park, Los Osos, CA. 04 June 2009, on Jerry Kirkhart’s Digital Photo Walk. Photo by Michael “Mike” L. Baird, mike at mikebaird d o t com, flickr.bairdphotos.com, Canon 5D, 180mm Macro lens w/ 2.0X TE, tripod. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

To combat my spittlebug issues, I went outside and spritzed the froth with a diluted mixture of dishsoap and H2O.  You don’t really need to go the whole insecticidal route with them, as the goal is to remove the spittle and the eggs that the creatures may have laid, and blasting them with a jet of plain water will do the trick nicely.  The adult spittlebugs will feed on your plants after emerging and their eggs are capable of withstanding our cold winters, so eliminating the eggs is very important.

Have you ever had spittlebugs in your garden?  What did you do to combat them? 

Of full rain barrels and unwanted pests.

Weather update in Calgary:  it’s still raining.  It would be okay to feel this coastal, I guess, except for the fact that we’re lacking a nearby ocean.  So, really, it’s not okay at all.  But we’re a chipper lot here - I can’t tell you how many times this week that I heard people announce, quite cheerfully, “At least my rain barrels are full!”   I went out this morning in the persistent drizzle and planted an ‘Aunt Molly’ ground cherry seedling that I had started indoors a couple of months ago – of course, I am completely aware that we’ll have frost right around the time the fruits are ripening on the plant (that is, assuming it even survives to bear fruit), but I simply have to make an attempt.  It’s “rain barrel-full” optimism!

On a slightly less positive note, the rain will bring with it some additional problems; once the weather clears and the summer heat begins (see, there’s that optimism again!), we’re going to notice all kinds of “pest issues” in our gardens and our homes.   A quick hunt on the ‘net brings with it some interesting pest control strategies…let me know if you’ve tried any of these, or if they’re simply myths:

To repel ants- shave off slices of fresh cucumber and place them around the affected locations.  The ants hate cucumber and will usually beat a hasty exit.  I’ve actually done this and I found that some of the ants didn’t retreat; instead, they climbed onto the cucumbers and sort of floundered around until they died.   I then picked up the cuke chunks and threw them out.  It didn’t take long before my ant infestation came to an end.  This one really works.

Cucumber and cross section

To get rid of mosquitoes in your outdoor living room/kitchen:  throw a handful of sage or rosemary sprigs on your barbeque coals while you’re grilling.  The smoke and scent will keep the moskies away and you’ll have extra flavour for your meats and veggies.   I’ve never tried this, but it’s a great tip for us Canadians, ‘cos we have mosquitoes here as big as houses.

For slugs:  run a line of ground ginger along the perimeter of plants you want to protect.  Slugs hate the stuff, it irritates them.  Used coffee grounds work the same way, supposedly.  I’ve yet to find a slug in my garden (please don’t let this be the year), so I’ve never attempted either remedy.

If you have black flies, try crushing some fresh mint and placing it in cheesecloth bags around the house, especially near windowsills and doors.  If it doesn’t work, you can always use the mint to make mojitos!!!  (Rain barrel-full, I’m telling you!).  :)

To make moths stay out of your closets and dressers, put cinnamon sticks or cloves in a cheesecloth satchet and place them inside the furniture.  It will smell great and is definitely not as toxic as moth balls.  Has anyone tried this?

Cinnamon sticks.

Cinnamon sticks. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

If you’ve got a problem with sowbugs and you can’t seem to get them out of all of the nooks and crannies of your house foundation, go and get yourself some big cobs of fresh, juicy corn.  Grill up the corn on the barbeque, slather some herb butter on it, and enjoy it with a nice beef/bison/elk steak/roasted eggplant.  Then take the gnawed-on cobs and set them on the ground along the perimeter of the house.   The sowbugs will be attracted to the corn and you can just collect the cobs and throw them in a bucket of soapy water to kill the bugs.   Again, I’m not plagued with sowbugs – does this seem like a good strategy to you?

In the war against aphids, make a foliar spray out of water and chopped potato or tomato leaves (plants of the Solanaceae family have poisonous leaves) or the leaves of rhubarb or elderberries (which contain high concentrations of toxic oxalic acid).  This seems like it should work, but I wonder how many applications you have to make?

If earwigs are a bother, try placing shallow bowls filled with soy sauce and vegetable oil at the base of the affected plants.  The insects will fall in and drown.  If anyone knows if this solution works, please let me know.  I’m still confused as to whether or not earwigs are naturally clumsy and can’t hang onto the plants they’re munching on….  ;)

If you are plagued with hares, as I am, you can try sprinkling flour on young seedlings or garlic powder on mature plants – the long-ears won’t touch them.  This remains to be seen – I will definitely test this and keep you updated.

Starting your own seeds?  Apparently you can brew up some chamomile tea and use it to irrigate your young seedlings (instead of mere H2O) – the chamomile will help prevent fusarium wilt (damping off).   This is one I simply must try!  As well, you can make a foliar spray out of chamomile, which will combat powdery mildew.

English: Powdery Mildew on a tomato plant Fran...

English: Powdery Mildew on a tomato plant Français : Feuilles de plant de tomate touchées par l’oïdium (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Speaking of powdery mildew, supposedly if you mix equal parts of water and milk and spray it on the affected plants, the mildew will eventually go away.  I guess you have to do this repeatedly, however, and wait a whole week in between sprays, so the whole process is probably lengthier than most people would care for.  What do you think?

Here are some websites to try for more down-home pest control remedies (and related topics):

http://eartheasy.com/live_natpest_control.htm  General insect control, including great tips about making natural mosquito repellant from Thai lemongrass
http://eartheasy.com/grow_nat_pest_cntrl.htm  Illustrations of beneficial insects and some Integrated Pest Management tips
http://www.colostate.edu/Depts/CoopExt/4DMG/PHC/psticid2.htm  Pesticides: Natural Isn’t Always Best – interesting perspective, a must-read
(As most of these articles point out, you have to apply any pest control solution with caution.  And, of course, remember that some of these remedies aren’t tested and true – and certainly not scientific!).
There are a million other home remedies like these for home owners and gardeners – do you have any particular ones that you use in your own garden? 

Flowery blurbs, volume 10.

While I make short work of that milk chocolate bunny I accidentally bought the other day, feel free to take a gander at this week’s Flowery Blurbs:

Use plant dyes for Easter.

I found this timely holiday post at Simple Bites, and was inspired to create the multi-hued eggs pictured below (using tumeric, blueberries, and paprika).  You don’t need those dye kits from the store – just raid your spice rack and your freezer! 

Seriously old wood plates go digital.

Romeyn Beck Hough’s book The American Woods (written between 1888 and 1910) has been freshly digitized and made available for everyone’s viewing pleasure at the History of Forestry website.  It’s a fascinating look at over 350 different types of North American trees, with detailed text and cross-sections of each.  The book is all the more important because some of these species no longer exist. 

When earthworms go bad.  (And no, I’m not talking about the denizens of my new vermicomposter).

A recent article suggests that while earthworms are amazingly useful in the garden, they do not work to promote healthy forests.  The amount of leaf litter that earthworms can consume seems to be at the root of the problem…pun intended.  Read all about it here.

Get a buggy education.

Olds College continues their 2012 Hort Week Speaker Series with a fantastic talk by their resident insect guru, Dr. Ken Fry.  Check out his full lecture about creating Environmentally Friendly Yards here.

Sweet edible flowers. 

I plan to plant a whole bunch of calendula this spring, to use in my fledgling attempts at dyeing fabric using plants from my own garden…it just so happens calendula flowers are edible as well, so I will be sure to try them out in my microgreen mixes in addition to throwing them in the dyepot.  If you want to try something REALLY creative with edible flowers, check out this blog post from Sprinkle Bakes, where gorgeous viola blossoms take centre stage in lollipop candy.  I dare you not to drool over the photos.

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